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Micro Center Ender 3 3D Printer deal - $99 - Manufacturing

Chief Delphi

bobbysq August 25, 2021, 11:05pm

Recently found this deal for an Ender 3 for only $99, you need to register for this coupon and it’ll compound with their current sale, allowing you to pick one up for $99. YMMV, it got posted on a computer deal page so it might be out of stock for a while.

Regardless, I’ve heard good things about the Ender 3 as an entry-level 3D printer, so this seems like a good pickup for any team near a Micro Center.

7 Likes

troy_dietz August 26, 2021, 12:03am

< old man rant >
Back in my day we had to scrap and save for a $400 Wanhao Duplicator i3!
< /old man rant >

7 Likes

marshall August 26, 2021, 12:58am

Yeah, I remember the before times too. I miss them so.

1 Like

sanddrag August 26, 2021, 1:24am

This is a great deal, but I can’t pass the reCAPTCHA. It just sits there and spins. Anyone else have this problem?

Peyton_Yeung August 26, 2021, 1:25am

I purchased a Solidoodle 2 for $400 my freshman year of college. I thought it was a steal to get a 6x6x6 inch build volume printer for that price. Still don’t think I ever got a good print off of it.

Andrew_L August 26, 2021, 1:25am

cries in in-person pickup only

6 Likes

Stuart August 26, 2021, 1:59am

Guess I’ll be picking one up tommorow before the new member meeting

1 Like

bobbysq August 26, 2021, 4:11am

I feel that - the closest one to me is 3 hours away. I was just there this weekend, too… At least I got a free SSD out of it.

UnofficialForth August 26, 2021, 12:34pm

Does anyone know how to check the hours they are open? I’m willing to take a road trip to get one, presuming the are actually open when I get there.

GeeTwo August 26, 2021, 5:09pm

Both Chicago and Cincinnatti show 9pm on Google Maps.

Closest to me is Houston…nope.

mdurrani834 August 26, 2021, 5:50pm

Hmm…only a 50 minute drive…

Stuart August 26, 2021, 7:29pm

And 1745 now has a print farm.

Or atleast a print farm assembly project on the Todo list

4 Likes

BrianAtlanta August 26, 2021, 7:57pm

Check store inventory where ever you go. Use the link in the original post. The Chicago store out of stock, FYI.

2 Likes

troy_dietz August 26, 2021, 8:02pm

Yap.
Tustin store was out the moment it was posted on r/bapcs

scottgoering August 26, 2021, 10:24pm

There were at least 20 on the floor in the Overland Park, KS store at about 3:30pm this afternoon.

Thanks to OP for the coupon and link! Starting my 3D printing journey now.

8 Likes

DonRotolo August 27, 2021, 2:36pm

Yup, same here. Firefox. Try another browser.
Or not: completely sold out nationwide.

FrankJ August 27, 2021, 3:00pm

Same on Firefox. It worked on chrome, but it said new customers only.

DonRotolo August 27, 2021, 4:11pm

Well, I got my coupon but with none available it’s kinda pointless.
“New Customers” means new to this version of their loyalty program. Living between Marietta and Duluth gives me unusually good MicroCenter access, I already get their weekly emails and such. For this particular thing, I opted back out of texts and emails right quick.

scottgoering August 27, 2021, 6:16pm

You might try to call and see if they can check the store stock; or just head to the store. Yesterday the website said it was sold out in Overland Park, but there were 20+ on the floor.
The website now says there are 25+ available, but my brother just picked his up and said there were maybe 15-20 left.

Long story short: the stock on the website may not be completely accurate.

1 Like

5 Ways How to Get a Free 3D Printer & Cheap Options – 3D Printerly

3D printing has greatly changed how we create objects for fun or functional use. However, 3D printers can be very costly, especially if you’re on a tight budget. In this article, I will explore some of the best ways to get a free 3D printer and some affordable options.

To get a free 3D printer, you will need to participate in contests, giveaways, or crowdfund for a new one. You can also search for one in online 3D printing communities or participate in tech-related workshops.

Alternatively, you can get affordable 3D printers from online platforms like Amazon, Craigslist, Microcenter, eBay, and Comgrow.

Keep reading to find out more about these methods.

How to Get a Free 3D Printer

One of the main challenges that most beginners face when they begin their 3D printing journey is the high cost of printers. Luckily, I’ve compiled a list of some of the best avenues to get a free 3D printer. They include:

Contests and giveaways
Crowdfunding
Local libraries and shared workspaces, g., Makerspace
Online 3D printing forums and groups
Promotions and sponsorships

Let’s dive deeper into these methods:

1. Contests and Giveaways

One of the best ways to get a free 3D printer is by participating in contests and giveaways. 3D printer manufacturers and dealers organize such events to increase awareness of their brands and improve customer relations.

These contests may involve submitting a design or idea for the chance to win a new 3D printer. Some of the best sites to scout for contests include MyMiniFactory, Printables, and Pinshape.

A good example is the Creality Cloud Shoe Design Contest. Here, the person with the best-designed, wearable shoe takes home $2,000, an Ender-5 S1, and 2KG of TPU filament as a prize.

The prize for second place is $1200, an Ender-5 S1 and 2KG of TPU filament, while the prize for third place is $800, an Ender-5 S1 and 2KG of TPU filament.

The process for joining the contest was as follows:

Sign up on the Creality Cloud website by clicking the log-in button in the top-left corner and choosing “Sign Up” from the pop-up window that appears.
Design a shoe model to the best of your ability.
Upload your model to the shoe contest page.

You can monitor the site for similar contests and enter if you have the required skills.

One user advised 3D printing enthusiasts to participate in competitions Creality holds to win a free printer. To be eligible, you have to upload a model you’ve designed to Creality Cloud.

The person whose model gets the most votes wins the competition and will receive a 3D printer from the company. This takes place every week.

Another similar contest is the Bambu Lab P1P design contest. In this contest, the participants are supposed to remix mod plates, develop new enclosures, create unique spool holders, and much more.

If you emerge as the winner, you’ll get a brand new Bambu Lab P1P printer.

Giveaways, on the other hand, just require you to fill out a form or share a post to potentially get a printer as a prize. For example, Snapmaker regularly partners with 3D printing influencers to offer printer giveaways to people who like and follow their posts on social media.

Note: You should always be careful when searching for contests and giveaways online since many fraudulent sites exist.

Always check the legitimacy of the site offering the giveaway or contest. One way to do that is to look up reviews of the site online. Too many negative reviews should be a red flag.

2. Crowdfunding

Another way you can get a free 3D printer is through crowdfunding. It has become very popular recently as it is a relatively straightforward method of raising funds for companies or individual projects from many sources.

To get a “free 3D printer,” you can launch a campaign to raise funds through one of the several crowdfunding platforms available, such as Indiegogo, Kickstarter, or GoFundMe.

However, I’d suggest GoFundMe because you may need an innovative piece of tech or an interesting project to crowdfund on the first two sites.

This might be difficult if you’re just raising funds to purchase a 3D printer. GoFundMe only requires you to share a compelling story on why you need funds for a 3D printer before you can launch a fundraiser.

3. Local Libraries or Shared Workspaces

One place where you can get access to a 3D printer for free is public libraries. This option is suitable for people who just want to print stuff from time to time but aren’t ready to purchase a printer.

Many libraries have tech equipment that is open to the general public. To start, you need to do a Google search for local libraries near you that offer 3D printing services.

After finding one, visit them to get a chance to use their 3D printers for free. However, you may be required to purchase your own materials.

Alternatively, if you really love 3D printing, then I would advise you to join a shared or community-operated workspace, e.g., Makerspace. This is one of the best ways to get free access to resources such as 3D printers.

It is also a good way to meet like-minded people who can help you improve your 3D printing skills. Just search “makerspaces near me” on Google to find one and join.

One user asked how he could use a 3D printer for free or for a small fee. Someone responded that they needed to visit a public library near them to get one.

However, he was cautioned that 3D printers in public libraries might not be in perfect working condition since many people use them. Also, most of them aren’t high-quality machines.

Another user advised him to look for a nearby Unallocated Space (a nonprofit makerspace). He added that there was a Google calendar on the events page of the website where you could view which dates it was open so you could go in and use a 3D printer.

A user commented that the best way to get a free 3D printer was to search on Google for “library <your city> 3D printing” or “hackerspace|makerspace|fablab <your city>.” They added that these organizations had open days when anyone could go in and use the printers.

4. Online 3D Printing Forums and Groups

Another method of getting a free 3D printer is by joining and asking on online 3D printing forums and social media. Members of these groups usually upgrade their printers regularly.

Subsequently, they may be willing to dispose of their old model for free or cheaply. By inquiring regularly, you might be lucky to find someone willing to give you their old printer for free.

Additionally, members of 3D printing groups may provide you with valuable information on where you can get a free 3D printer. For example, they may highlight giveaways that you weren’t aware of.

They can also mention active promotions that you could participate in to earn a free 3D printer. Some of the best forums and groups to join include:

3D Printing: One of Facebook’s largest and most active 3D printing groups.
r/3Dprinting: This is a Reddit community that discusses 3D printing, its challenges, and solutions.
3D Printing Today: Among the largest 3D printing groups on LinkedIn
3D Printing for Noobs: This Facebook group is dedicated to helping people who are starting out on their 3D printing journey.

5. Promotions and Sponsorships

Another great way to get a free 3D printer is through company sponsorships. Many prominent companies sponsor people to review their printers or promote them. However, you’ll need to have a decent following before they can approach you.

So, if you already have a large following on Facebook, Twitter, or YouTube and have good knowledge of 3D printing, then this method will suit you.

Send your proposal to one of the companies that manufacture 3D printers (if they haven’t approached you already) to either review or promote their product on your social media pages or YouTube channel.

In exchange, the company may pay you or offer you a free 3D printer. These companies send several YouTubers, such as the 3D Printing Nerd and CHEP, free 3D printers, and other gear to test and review.

How to Get a 3D Printer for Cheap

If you have exhausted all avenues of getting a 3D printer for free, but you’re still unsuccessful, you can opt for a cheap one instead. Very few 3D printers come at affordable prices when they are brand new.

However, you can get used or refurbished printers at relatively low prices ($200 and below). Here are some of the main sources:

Amazon
Micro Center
Comgrow
eBay
Classified ads like Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace

1. Amazon

One of the places you can get a 3D printer for cheap is Amazon. Being the largest online retailer, they offer a variety of products, including 3D printers.

To get a cheap printer on Amazon, filter your search parameter by price and go through the results to find the one you prefer, add it to your cart, and then check out.

You can also keep an eye out for Amazon’s annual Prime Day event, where they offer steep discounts on various products, including 3D printers. One good thing about Amazon is that they allow for easy returns of defective products.

One user said they bought a Photon Mono X 4K resin printer from Amazon for $180. They said that it provided great quality prints despite its price.

Another user stated that you should ensure that your 3D printer ships from Amazon, not the seller. This is because dealing directly with Amazon makes it easier to return the product if anything is wrong with it.

Additionally, don’t make a mistake when making an order to avoid return shipping fees.

Here is a comprehensive review of the Easythreed X1 Flexible Filament 3D printer that can be found on Amazon for around $130.

2. Micro Center

Micro Center is a prominent American retailer that deals with computers, 3D printers, and other electronic devices. Pop into one of their store locations countrywide or go to their website and search for affordable 3D printers.

One user recommends an Ender 3 Pro for only $99 from any nearby Microcenter using the coupon sale they are running. He adds that you can upgrade it to compete with high-end machines, but you will have to invest a good amount of time and mods on it.

Alternatively, you could live with it like that since it produces decent prints for a sub-$300 machine. Another user

A user suggested spending $10–$15 on small mods like stiffer bed springs and an aluminum extruder for a start. Later on, they could add a silent motherboard, fireproof tents, fan upgrades, and a glass bed if they prefer.

For example, you can upgrade the stock extruder to an Upgraded Aluminum Drive Feed Extruder. In addition to being more durable than the stock extruder, the drive feed extruder provides a smoother and stronger filament feed.

You can also change the gear’s pressure easily to ensure that it doesn’t squish the filament while feeding it in.

Another great upgrade for your stock Ender 3 is the Aokin 3D Printer Bed Springs. Most 3D printing enthusiasts recommend this as one of the first upgrades for any Ender 3.

These springs are stronger and more stable than stock springs. As a result, your bed will stay level for longer and wobble less during printing.

Check out the video below to see a user who reviews the $99 Ender 3 Pro from Microcenter.

One user commented that he picked up his Ender 3 Pro from there and even 3D printed some upgrades to make it a direct drive 3D printer.

3. Comgrow

You can also get a cheap 3D printer from Comgrow. This is an online retailer that sells used and refurbished Creality 3D printers and their related accessories for extremely low prices. Check out their site to see some of the printers they offer.

One user who bought an Ender 3 S1 from Comgrow for $299, tax included, said they were happy with the purchase and would buy from Comgrow again. The only blemishes they found were a couple of scratches on the frame and firmware that wasn’t updated, which they fixed easily.

Check out the review I did on the Creality Ender 3 S1.

Another user said that they purchased a Creality Ender 3 for $79 from Comgrow, and it was printing well so far. However, he noted that it was missing some screws and needed a new x-axis belt.

4. eBay

eBay is a good source of 3D printers at pocket-friendly prices. This is because eBay focuses on selling refurbished and used goods.

Before purchasing any printer from eBay, ensure you read its description, specifications and carefully review its condition.

Also, confirm the seller’s reputation by looking at their reviews. This will help you avoid fraudsters who could potentially sell you a defective product.

One user asked where he could get cheap returns or refurbished printers and was advised to go to eBay to find a good deal. He was told he could find a used Ender 3 for $120–160, tops, since people upgrade their printers and give away their current ones at lower prices or for free.

The only thing they needed to do was ensure the seller was reputable by looking at their reviews. Another user warned them that 3D printing was expensive since they would also need to buy tools, upgrades, and filaments (which cost $10–20+ per kg), just to mention a few.

He recommended the inquirer find a Makerspace or someone who owned a printer and use theirs instead of purchasing one.

Keep in mind that there is more of a risk when buying used from a seller that doesn’t have much of a reputation, especially with these electrical devices.

5. Classified Ads like Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace

The final place you can get a 3D printer for cheap is on classified ads sites such as Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace. Browse through the electronics section of those sites and search for 3D printers.

You will find several printers that have been listed at low prices. Although their condition may not be new, you can still get fully functional 3D printers to work with.

One user was delighted after bagging a Monoprice IIIP for only $20 from Craigslist. This is after the original user threw it away due to a minor malfunction and purchased a new one.

To get it up and running, he needed to clean the base with rubbing alcohol and level the bed slowly.

Here’s a video of this type of 3D printer at work.

Someone advised him to purchase new nozzles, clean everything else on the machine, re-grease the rails, and tighten all bolts. In addition, he needed to reseat wiring plugs, dust electronic boards, and ensure that all the belts weren’t loose or worn out.

Another user who had a Monoprice Maker Select i3 for about a year and a half bagged a Wanhao i3 for $150 after searching on Facebook Marketplace.

When life gives you Facebook Marketplace, now I have two printers. from 3Dprinting

He said that a lady had bought it for her young kids, but they didn’t use it, so she decided to sell it. He messaged her and was able to pick it up at the end of the day.

These are all our top leads for free and cheap 3D printers. You can also keep an eye out for great offers, giveaways, and sales in your location to see if you can find one!

(There is a solution) What is PLA+? How is it different from PLA?

pla filament filament-choice pla+

Question

What is PLA+? How is it different from PLA? I'm looking for science, composition, formula, safety issues (or lack thereof), etc.

Background

I picked up a roll of PLA+ at Microcenter (their own in-house brand) because it was in customs. I didn't even notice the "+" until I decided to try this color and then noticed it on a sticker. It prints well, feels like ABS, smells like PLA when printed, and I can use the PLA temperature on my printer. It was better than PLA, and if I didn't notice the PLA+ stickers and the smell, would have thought it was ABS . It will break its line in my printer like PLA does; ABS won't break if left alone. However, PLA+ lasts longer than regular PLA before breaking down.

Getting information from the Internet

Other than a few reddit discussions (review, commercial introduction), I can't find anything about it.

Obtaining information from the Manufacturer

I went back to the Microcenter and the guy who worked there in the 3D printing section didn't know what I was talking about.

I went to the Microcentre another time and the guy in the filament area said that all their PLA filament is now PLA+ and that the + means it should be used at a higher temperature. Boxes are marked with 205 - 225°C. It seems that all the internal brand of PLA I have is PLA+, with the exception of the first roll I bought. There are no temperature marks on it.

Flash ahead 1.

5+ years from the original question

This question has received some recent attention, so I've been looking for an answer again. I found this article, which is a hot bunch of !usefulness, giving no data, lots of opinions, and probably some direct ideas from someone's marketing department.

These guys say it's good stuff, but nothing about the chemical or compositional difference between the two. When I find people talking about the difference (on reddit for example), it's the commonly mentioned details that are vague, anecdotal and opinionated and could be smart marketing (maybe not necessary). For example, the shine of one person is the matte color of another.

Monoprice confirmed what I had already done by reading the label and printing it but mentioned TPU which could be TPU. No quantity, no proportion, nothing, and since they are the only manufacturer/seller to officially state this, I consider it unconfirmed. One of the answers below says that PLA+ probably includes TPU or something, but that's speculation or opinion by their own admission.

PLA+ is a variation of PLA that added material to make the thread is less brittle, has a smoother surface and less likely to absorb moisture. Generally, TPU is added to the filament to achieve this property. PLA+ will have a feel and odorless ABS functionality. If you didn't know better, you I would think it's ABS. We offer printing with PLA+ at temperatures from 205 to 210 degrees Celsius and with a table temperature of 45 degrees Celsius. PLA+ responds very well to blue duct tape and duct stick to properly hold and not peel off when printing.

These people also ask what it is, but they are doing science about it around 2014 to try to understand it.

I'm not sure what to think of this manufacturer/seller's description. They seem to imply that PLA has a branding issue, so they added a plus to it for a new formula to fix their branding.

PLA Plus is an upgraded version of our PLA that is less brittle and more durable. ‘Improved’ PLAs have a bad reputation, some don’t better than PLA, some work worse in some conditions. We took different approach: our "regular" PLA is considered the strongest pure PLA in the industry, it is difficult to improve the best. But sometimes you need something more durable. Enter our specially designed PLA Plus. Prints like PLA but with better strength. It is available with their more vibrant color options!

Closing Thoughts

I find many articles/posts talking about "eSUN PLA+" specifically. I'm starting to think it might be an OEM and that other companies are selling it with their own brand, but that all PLA+ comes from the same place. I found their product page and it says this but nothing about the formula:

Features:

corn extracted and cleaned;

high rigidity, good glossiness and transparency;

is suitable for printing large models;

strength is 2 times that of PLA on the market;

no problem with wire drawing, print surface will be more smooth and delicate;

no cracking problems.

@YetanoTherandomuser, 👍 👍 👍

Discussion

7 answers

Best answer:

▲ 15,0002 ▲ ▲ 150002 Refusal: I am not related to any bound brand or company, I just refer on them for suggested print settings.

PLA, by definition, is a polylactic acid, a polymer interwoven with lactic acids. It is usually made from fermented starch - not with type I (alcohol) fermentation, but type II (lactic acid) fermentation ^{user77232, Wikipedia} . Chemically, it looks like this:

These are the corresponding physical data for a pure material - a density of 1.210–1.430 g cm ⁻³ and a melting point of 150 to 160 ° C. ^Wikipedia.

Usually PLA, sold only under the name PLA, contains, in addition to PLA, additives to change the color from transparent to any color that is printed. This may change the standard print temperature depending on the amount, size and shape of pigments applied (see below).

General print temperatures are specified by manufacturers as 185 to 210°C. Color can affect print temperature, especially when there is a difference between transparent and opaque filaments. While a heated table is not strictly necessary, the temperature of the work table is usually stated at 60°C.

I print most PLA filaments myself at 200°C and 60°C on the bench, but for colored clear filaments I have had the best results at 190°C.

Please note that not all PLA is just PLA! It is very likely that some brands of PLA contain fillers and additives from home without claiming +-filament, in fact additives predate the idea of PLA+, as will be shown in the case of PP3DP multilevel filaments.

Special Tier Mix

Starting in 2012 or earlier, ABS made by Tiertime includes some unknown compound (probably PC) that changes the print temperature from a "normal" 220-240°C to a much higher but narrower 260- 270 °C stripes. Why this is done remains a mystery to 3d printing enthusiasts, but it could either be to get rid of any color dependency of print results, or to make conventional ABS more difficult to use. The fact is that this temperature corresponded to what was established as the (then unchangeable) standard temperature at software Up 1.1.7 of that time. ^{Angus aka the MakersMuse and Tiertime forums} . The higher temperature has not changed over the years. ^* Indeed, PLA Tiertime, introduced in March 2014 by , is also cited for printing at higher temperatures than regular PLA, and had a similarly higher default temperature in the then updated forums on layered software. although I found lists from 200 ^{here and here} up to 215 °C ^{here under Technical date} .

Modern software UP-Studio allows you to freely set the temperature ^{aka MakersMuse} .

So what is the difference between PLA and PLA+? Well, PLA+ is modified PLA, which means that it has additives that change its properties. What exactly is added is highly dependent on the manufacturer, and no two PLA+ are the same. ^all3dp .

PLA+ has - but by a few degrees - the same print temperature as standard PLA. In fact, the difference in print temperature between standard PLA from different brands is often greater than the difference between PLA and PLA+.

All3dp states that most PLA+ would have a better surface finish than PLA of the same brand. Because of the additives, they also usually print best at elevated temperatures compared to PLA. Among various manufacturers I have seen 210-240 °C ^{Kodak PLA+} , 190-220°C ^{SUNLU PLA+} and 190-210°C ^{eSUN PLA+} .

However, there is no uniformity in other effects on the filament. Some yarns will have less water absorption, different stiffness or compressibility, while others may have higher tensile strength and an extremely glossy finish.

The most commonly claimed benefits are the strength of the filament, the texture and glossiness of the surface, and the ability to print projections.

PLA+ is not a single product as such, but is a family of modified PLA . While you can print PLA+ with the same settings as regular PLA, the resulting benefits between different brands are much more varied than with regular PLA.

Switching between different grades of regular PLA of the same quality usually has little effect on overall print properties.
Transition between different brands PLA+ of similar quality can significantly change print properties

Because no two brands of PLA+ are the same (and manufacturers don't say which additives they use to modify properties), don't rely on the same effects when switching between brands.

15 May 19 , @ Trish

▲ 6

There is not much difference between the two. Print settings such as temperature and print speed are almost the same. But PLA+ has a much better surface quality and is slightly brighter than regular PLA. Another difference is that PLA+ is more effective in bridges than PLA.

If you want to compare PLA and PLA+, go right here, PLA vs PLA+ (at a glance). This post is an awesome experiment with both materials.

17 Nov 17 , @ Juan Pablo Rodas Martínez

▲ 3

PLA+, depending on the brand, is likely a mixture of other plastics (e.g. TPU ¹ ) that helps overcome the disadvantages of conventional PLA such as brittleness and moisture absorption. Or they just used a higher quality PLA blend to create the filament.

I have no specific source other than collaborations with various material experts such as Essentium Materials. TPU is a flexible plastic that can have different levels of "hardness".

¹ Thermoplastic Polyurethane. It is a flexible thermoplastic.

18 Nov 17 , @ Adam Starbuck

▲ 2

PLA+ is brand . Where PLA and ABS have specific chemical meanings (more or less... manufacturers will already have different additives or processes), the only real requirement for PLA+ is to use some unknown amount of PLA as a base.

Look at coffee beans as an example: we have Arabica versus Robusta. Arabica is generally considered the best, for some definition of "better". (By the way: Starbucks serves cheaper Robusta.) It is important to note that in many places you only need 10% Arabica content to label and sell coffee as Arabica. The rest of the product could be... well, whatever the creator wants to include.

PLA+ is similar. There is no real ultimate point to this other than some measure of original PLA content and the hope that you will believe it is "better" and therefore perhaps pay a little more.

The good news is that PLA+ is usually better... at least for now. But as more people start to see this as a real step up from regular PLA, it's likely that we'll also start to see some shady businessmen transfer inferior product to PLA+. It is likely that this is already happening.

Moral of the story: Read the label carefully. And unlike coffee, which is a food and therefore better regulated, threads have little to no labeling rules; you may not need to read the label at all, so be especially careful with what you buy.

14 May 19 , @ Joel Coehoorn

▲ 4

Some of these questions could be answered by asking the manufacturers for the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets), a.k.a. SDS (Safety Data Sheets).

In accordance with EU legislation in force since 2008, any substance supplied to the EEA (European Economic Area) in quantities of more than 1 ton per year, the composition of which contains more than 0.1% by weight of a compound identified in the article 57 database , shall provide the MSDS upon request, including a breakdown of its content.

If you look at the SDS for PLA+ eSUN, for example, you will see:

 ═══╦═══════════╦═════════════╗ ║ Ingredient Name ║ CAS No. ║ EC No. ║ Content (%) ║ —The ═══════════╣ ║ Polylactide resin ║ 9051-89-2 ║ 618-575-7 ║ 98 ║ ║ Calcium carbonate ║ 471-34-1 ║ 207-439-9 ║ 2 ║ “It is possible to have a time” ═══════════╝

Sep 15 20 , @ FooMonkey

▲ 2

I know this is an old question, but CNC Kitchen just recently did a review of PLA+ and the mechanical properties of one brand and found it to be much weaker than regular PLA, but with failure modes that can be more elegant/preferred for some applications. In short, it stretched and tore rather than broke.

Sep 15 20 , @ R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE

▲ 1

Adding this as a new answer as it doesn't seem to be covered by existing answers:

Despite "PLA+" being a marketing term with no specific definition, I have found that many (most?) filament vendors don't seem to make their own secret sauce mix to do so, and most premium filament vendors who document< /em> the original polymers they use use pretty much the same thing - most often one from Natureworks Ingeo. A three-dimensional series of polymers obtained as raw pellets, often 3D850 or 3D870. So, if you can be sure it's the filament you're selling as "PLA+" made from (or just find one that's well documented), you can use the polymer data sheets to learn more about its composition.

25 Jul 22 , @ R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE

High Voltage Laser Printer Power Supply

Table of Contents

Introduction: High Voltage Laser Printer Power Supply
Step 1 Gather Your Materials
Step 2: The Basics Before You Go how to start
Step 3: Find the CPU board and power supply
Step 4: Find the pins and switch
Step 5: Soldering Time.
s TEP 6: Find high voltage outputs
Step 7. Repeat the CPO payment and turn on the power
share the first
Recommendations
Contest “Make this glow”
Competition of the authors for the first time
Competition ANYTHING GOES
8 discussions

Introduction: high voltage power supply from laser printer

Author: bobyong808

Step 1 Gather Your Materials

Printer tearing tools
- Phillips screwdriver
- Flat head screwdriver for prying plastic seams separately

Soldering tools
- Soldering iron
- Soldering iron
- Short pieces of fine wire approx. 30 gauge (can be collected along the way)

Step 2: Basics Before you start

The power supply outputs high voltage only when we provide the correct pins on the control IC with the correct voltage. Under normal conditions, the CPU applies 3.3V to the control pins to turn off the high voltage output. We need to make the voltage on these control pins low (GND voltage) so that the high voltage outputs are turned on.

Total
When the control voltage is HIGH (3.3V), then the HV output is OFF.
When the control voltage is LOW (GND), the HV output is ON.
Power supply can only work when the CPU board is connected.

Disconnecting the CPU board from the power supply does not work either, there are other pins giving ON instructions for the power supply from the CPU.

Our solution is to cut copper traces from the CPU to the control pins and then solder wires from GND to control pins . All this is done with the preservation of all other contacts. The power supply will be tricked into thinking that the CPU is instructing it to turn on the high voltage.

These are the 3 control pins we need to solder to.
PWM DEV
PWM MHV
PWM THV

WE DO NOT TOUCH THE CPU BOARD, it's too complicated and completely optional.

Step 3: Locate the CPU board and power supply

The power supply board must have a lot of high-voltage capacitors and must be connected to the mains.
The CPU board must be connected to the power supply board with a ribbon cable. (VIEW IMAGE)

DI Connect all other wires to the CPU board and leave only the power supply ribbon cable connection.

Step 4: Find contacts and switch

The power supply board will have markings on both surfaces indicating which pin does what. Find 3 contacts
PWM_DEV
PWM_MHV
PWM_THV

Also look for a switch on the power supply board that closes when the printer cover is closed. This is a safety feature as the power supply can only output high voltage when the cover is closed. In the next step, we will solder the wire to bypass this switch.

Step 5: Soldering Time.

PINS
1) Locate copper traces up to 3 pins PWM on the solder side of the power supply board.

2) Use a knife to cross out the line to cut the copper traces from the processor tape cable to the controller IC (SEE IMAGE) so you can solder it. next

3) Use a flathead screwdriver or a small piece of sandpaper to CAREFULLY remove the solder on the remaining copper track.

4) Solder the wire to 3 bare copper tracks

5) Locate the GND connection (usually labeled for you)

6) Solder the other end of the wire to the GND connection.

SWITCH
1) Close the switch contacts together with the wire, it should be very easy.

S tep 6: Find high voltage outputs

In this printer design, almost all of the action takes place in the toner cartridge. (BLUE OBJECT IN IMAGE). The PCB is mounted vertically on the side so that the high voltage outputs touch the contacts on the cartridge directly, without the need for thick high voltage wires.

On this power supply board, the outputs are clearly labeled DEV, MHV, SUPPLY and THV. If you don't have one, try to find out where the "drying" stage of the printer is located, then look for any wires or metal contacts that are touching the power supply. The high voltage pin ground should look the same (usually located on the periphery of the board, surrounds everything).

At this point, if you don't understand why you need a high voltage ground, you probably shouldn't play with HV. All output voltages are referenced to GND. You will need both a high voltage ground and a high voltage output for whatever entertainment you want.

NOTE. All high voltage outputs are FORWARD.

Step 7: Reconnect the CPU board and turn on the power

1) Connect the processor board. Note that we have done NOTHING on the processor board. Most things are SMT and layered and it would be unwise to mess with that.

You DO NOT need to connect anything else, such as fuser or engine controls.

2) Plug it in and turn it on.

Your indicator LEDs should flash to indicate normal operating conditions.

3) Check the high voltage outputs with your fingers.
JUST BABY! You probably won't die, but you will seriously regret it.

You can use wires to connect a high resistance resistor from HV GROUND and see if there are tiny sparks flying from the resistor to the high voltage output.

YOU SHOULD KNOW WHAT TO DO WITH THIS PROJECT AT THIS TIME. That is the purpose of you starting to read this manual. Power up your nixie watch, charge some high voltage capacitors, whatever!

Thank you, and I hope you have fun.

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8 discussions

kokes

1 year ago

I think this guide is amazing. I find it invaluable for anyone who wants to try a laser printer and doesn't know where to start. Thank you.
PS: It's AC that kills, not DC, that's what the current wars between Edison and Tesla were about, don't you remember? High DC cannot kill you.

eddiehitler45

Reply 10 months ago

AC will throw you back, DC will cause a spasm and prevent you from letting go of the source.

Qwertypat

4 years ago

Bob, excellent teacher!

Good material. Now I have even more options to choose from on what to do with my laser printer, but your idea is high on my list.

cheers, qp

JoshuaK44

4 years ago

You know what's interesting about this? The printer design you have chosen is actually very generic. It is used for printers from Samsung as well as from Dell and probably many others. In fact, your local microcenter is offering this printer for $30 - it's the Pantum P2500W.

wb7ptr

5 years ago about the introduction of

Thanks for the safety tip. I don't know much about laser printers and didn't know they put out kilovolt volts. Definitely a lethal thing if your body is somewhere in the chain! I know it's best not to touch ANYTHING whose voltage and current I don't know, but there are a few people who can. To compare voltages and lethality... the electric chair in most states puts out 2 kilovolts at about 10 amps or so. I know I'm not going to touch anything in that voltage range, and neither should you. Have fun with the project and stay SAFE.

JoshuaK44

Reply 4 years ago

I don't know how deadly it is. Remember that the static shock you get when you touch a doorknob after walking on carpeted floors is tens of thousands of volts. But the current is very tiny (a picoamp, if so) and drains out in tenths of a second. Something like this printer power supply emits microamps (maybe milliamps). I wouldn't touch it anyway - it could cause a heart attack, but it's nowhere near as dangerous as 2kV at 10A.

agulesin

6 years ago about the introduction of

Hello. Thank you for this interesting inst. I love to take apart printers, but I never thought about the power supply working "by itself".

I just wanted to comment on your step 7 - third point:

“3) Check the high voltage outlets with your fingers.”

Even if you say that this is a joke, we must be careful because everything we say can be taken literally by some people.

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